Come late May, the British hedgerows foam with creamy elderflowers. For a few fleeting weeks, elder bushes offer up their fragrant blossom, and with it the chance to bottle summer. Elderflower cordial is one of the simplest foraged drinks you can make: a handful of flower heads, sugar, lemons, and time. Pick on a dry, sunny morning when the scent is at its peak, and you will have a taste of the countryside that lasts for months. The resulting cordial is a versatile mixer, a refreshing summer drink, and a lovely gift.

When and Where to Forage

Elderflowers appear from late May to early July, earlier in the south and later in the north. The best time to pick is mid-morning on a dry day, after the dew has lifted but before the heat drives off the delicate oils. Avoid picking after rain, as wet blossoms dilute the flavour and can turn mouldy. A warm, still morning is ideal; if the flowers smell strongly of cat or musk, they are past their best.

Look for elder in hedgerows, woodland edges, and field margins. Choose bushes away from busy roads, dog-walking paths, and any sign of spraying. Always ask permission on private land, and never strip a bush bare — leave plenty for bees and for the berries that feed birds later.

Identifying Elder

Elder has pinnate leaves — paired leaflets with one at the end — that smell bitter when crushed. The bark is grey-brown and fissured, and the stems are often hollow. The flowers grow in flat-topped umbels of tiny, five-petalled creamy-white blossoms with a sweet, heady scent. Do not confuse it with dwarf elder, which has an unpleasant smell, or with cow parsley, whose white umbels lack the elderflower perfume and whose leaves are feathery. If in doubt, crush a leaf and smell it.

Picking Tips

Snip whole flower heads with scissors, choosing fully open, creamy-white blooms. Take a basket or cloth bag rather than plastic, which can sweat and crush the flowers. Handle gently — bruising releases bitter oils from the stems.

• Pick on a dry morning after the dew has lifted.
• Snip whole heads, leaving plenty for wildlife.
• Use a basket or cloth bag, not plastic.
• Avoid roadside bushes and any that may have been sprayed.
• Shake gently to dislodge insects.

A good haul is 20–30 large heads, giving 1.5–2 litres of cordial.

Making the Cordial

For every 1 litre of water, use 700g caster sugar, the zest and juice of 2 lemons, and 20–25 elderflower heads. Citric acid (1 tsp per litre) is optional but helps preservation.

• 1 litre water
• 700g caster sugar
• Zest and juice of 2 unwaxed lemons
• 20–25 elderflower heads
• 1 tsp citric acid (optional)

Shake the flower heads to remove insects, then pick off the tiny flowers, discarding the green stems. Heat the water and sugar gently until dissolved, then bring just to the boil and turn off the heat. Add the lemon zest and juice, citric acid if using, and the elderflowers. Stir, cover with a clean cloth, and steep for 24 hours at room temperature, stirring once or twice.

Straining and Storing

Strain through a muslin-lined sieve or clean tea towel — do not squeeze, or you may extract bitterness. Pour into sterilised bottles (wash in hot soapy water, rinse, dry in a low oven at 140°C for 10 minutes). Seal and label. Kept cool and dark, it lasts several months; once opened, refrigerate and use within a few weeks. Discard if it fizzes, turns cloudy, or smells off.

Enjoying and Variations

Dilute one part cordial to five parts still or sparkling water. Serve over ice with mint, or mix with gin or vodka. It is lovely drizzled over yoghurt or fruit. For variation, add orange zest instead of one lemon, or a few mint leaves to the steep. The plain version — elderflowers, sugar, lemon, time — is hard to beat.